Generally the rock is stable granite. The routes are situated on different walls and crags 30 min to 5 h walk from the Maliovitza hut. On many routes pitons are scarce, some are very well equipped but pitons are often unstable. The area is vast, offering various routes in different stiles on the steep walls of 20-25 summits.

Where to climb:

The crags near Maljovitza hut are the most easily accessible and are good for bad weather conditions.

Mt. Maliovitza (2729m) is the most popular summit in North-West Rila Mountain. It’s North face (120 m high) is one of the biggest climbing walls in Bulgaria. It is situated at about 2 h from Maljovitza hut. The first ascention (Klasicheski route) was made in 1938 by K. Savadjiev and G. Stoimenov. By now there are about 15 routes here. In summer it’s more convenient to camp near the lakes Elenini or Mljovishki at about 30 min from the crag.

Mt. Orleto is situated between Mt. Maljovitza and Malka Maljovitza. There are 3 or even more routes on it’s North face, but are not recommendable - the rock is extremely fragile.

Ushite, 2560 m, it’s South face (100 m high) provides five old routes and three sport ones(6+, 7+, 9), equiped with Longlife bolts.

Dvuglav, 2605m is the highest in the area. The southern wall is 400m. There are about 5 routes but unfortunately they are too easy, with too much grass and juniper bushes. However, one of them is among the prettiest routes in the area (Chaika; 5+; 12-16 pitches). The southeastern  wall (the Black Wall) is lower (250m) but the routes are more difficult. The easiest access here is by climbing one of the routes on Diavolskite Igli (Devil's Needles). To the south of Dvuglav is situated the rock needle Portala. The rock there is exellent.

Iglata, 2575m is situated to immediately west to Dvuglav. It's south ridge offers a long easy climb of about 10 pitches (Klassicheski route, 5+). On the west wall there are several (5-6) good classical routes (Kosmonavti, Narodna Armia) of 5+ to 7; 4-5 pitches.

Iglata na Monaha is situated immediately south of mt. Orlovetz, towards the vally of Rilska River. There is only one route (Ivan Vazov, 5-, 4 pitches) but the sight is great.

Zlia Zyb, 2650m is one of the most popular crags in the region. Its North face is a good training area for beginners and provides good opportunity for winter climbing. There are 2-3 routes in the face itself and 2 on the East and West ridges, being the oldest ones in the region (1935, Herman Hundt & Toni Widemann). The most convenient place to sleep is the mounain shelter Granitna Voda/BAK, built by Bulgarian mountaineers under the initiative of Milcho Ladov.

Djavoilski Igli, Devil's Needles, 2580m are 6 crags hanging over the glacier vally Belia Ulej. The best routes are: MAL, 5-, 5 pitches; Sofia, 6+, 7 pitches; Planinetz, 6+, 5 pitches; Sliven, 6+, A3, 5 pitches; Plovdiv, 5+, 5 pitches; Orlovetz, 5-, 3 pitches; Eho, 6-, 5 pitches.

When to climb: Summer and autumn - best period august and september. Winter: december - april.

Guidebooks: A guidebook about climbing in Rila (in bulgarian) edited by the Bulgarian Alpine Federation. It is very difficult to find it. For all climbing areas, topoes and routes describtion, please visit www.climbingguidebg.com - online climbing guide for Bulgaria.